Sunday 13 April 2014

Evolution of Materials Used in Shoes

Spanish cave drawings from more than 15,000 years ago show humans with animal skins or furs wrapped around their feet. Shoes, in some form or another, have been around for a very long time. The evolution of foot coverings, from the sandal to present-day athletic shoes continues even today as we find new materials with which to cover our feet.


Have the materials used in shoe really changed that much? We are, in fact, still wearing shoes that are made up of the same cloth, fabric, substance and material similar to the oldest crafted foot covering known to us. In fact, many of the shoes we wear today can be traced back to another era.
If we look at it analytically, the construction of shoes and the materials used for its construction relied heavily on the needs of a specific era or time. It also depended upon the availability of the materials in that region. By comparison, the materials used today in shoes lean more towards the fashion demands than the needs. Needs are still foreseen, but they are no more the top priority.
The evolution of the materials used in shoes is as extensive as can be and equally versatile.
It started off with leaves and animal hide. These materials were used solely for the protection of feet. As time progressed, other materials were discovered that promised more durability of shoes and the protection of feet.

The early 15th century saw the rise of the renaissance period which first brought about the concept of fashion and style.

Painting by Francois Clouet

Leather was the most common material for footwear through the Renaissance. The skins of deer, goat, and sheep were common for light shoes for both men and women. The shoes could be fastened with hooks, buttons or lacings.

The period from 1520 to 1560 was one of political realism. Thus, the adopted shoe style was artificial rather than derived from nature.


Most mens shoes were made of leather, with slashing on the toes. or women, delicate colours and violet were smart in leather, velvet, silk and other fabrics, though as the period continued, leather was used more frequently. In about 1570, fabrics were replaced by leather for all classes.

The fashions during the late sixteenth and early seventeenth century continued to be anti-natural, still displaying the intricacies and tensions of mannerism.


Shoes of this period were made predominantly of leather that was either fine and soft, or rough, depending on the price. Cork was a popular material for soles. Embroidery had an important place in English shoe fashions. Brocades were also favoured for ladies shoes.

By the 1600’s, Shoes were made mostly of light colours, with white dominating. Decorative rosettes also added the additional colour to footwear. Leather was the favourite material for both boots and shoes. Indoor slippers were made of fine fabric, with silk being the favourite.



During the early 1700’s womens shoes were often made of velvet, silks, and satins, and could be embroidered for full dress. Extensive use of appliqued braids was also popular, producing a striped effect.


From 1715 to 1775, velvet was used primarily for dress wear. For dancing, satin shoes were seen, though fabric was quite uncommon for mens daily wear. For womens shoes, fabric was much more popular. Silk and wool were the primary materials.

Gainsborough: Lady Gertrude Alston

Leathers for mens shoes became lighter in the 1780s. Colours such as red, white and yellow emerged. The whole shoe, in fact, became lighter in construction and appearance. Heels are abandoned in about 1800, and right and left shoes are reintroduced to the world. Metal eyelets for lacing were patented in 1823 and by 1874 the eyelet setting machine came into use, increasing the popularity of metal eyelets.


The introduction of rubber led to several new fashion fads in the later part of the 19th century. In the late 1880s, rubber becomes a novelty for summer wear. In the 1890s, rubber heels become popular and common.


A new soling material came into use for childrens shoes in 1924, and entered the fashion scene for women in the next year. By 1925, there was a great increase in the amount of reptile leathers used, especially snake and lizard.


The thirties saw the great depression. Sneakers came into fashion, and proved to be hard wearing - ideal for the economic hard times. The silks that dominated womens evening shoes early in the decade were soon replaced by the more practical leather and suede.

T-Strap Ad

The forties were a time of war but that did not stop the shoe styles from evolving. Chunky trimmings and peep toes decorated the very popular court shoe.


At the beginning of the 50’s, colour and fabric were of little importance to shoe fashion. Shape was everything. The fabric was usually a smooth leather or soft suede in black or brown. In 1954, a craze for all things Oriental hit the west, and Turkish slippers in deep hues appeared. These were often embroidered and decorated with gold beads. Though the craze quickly died, the colours and fabrics of the 1955 lines show how influential the mood had been.

Mary Jane ad

After the 50’s no great development was seen as long as it came to the development of shoe materials. The people of that era went as far as to say that any more development in the materials used is very unlikely as people began to set in a definite pattern of style and fashion.
But the 90’s changed it all. Technology has had a huge impact on the footwear of this decade. Materials such as microfibres, stretch fabrics, and various synthetic materials were used to make the retro styles new again.


Now we are living in a limbo state where a wide range of material is used for the construction of shoes and everything is considered to be in style.


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